The pattern requires sew-in interfacing. I am combining this requirement with methods gleaned from two other sources: Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong (book) and “Armani Jackets: The Inside Story” by Marcy Tilton (magazine article). Sew-in interfacing will become the interlining and I will use two different materials for interfacing and underlining. Below are terms and definitions from Patternmaking.
Interfacing. Interfacing is the layer placed between the outer fabric and the facing. Its function is to shape and stabilize detail areas, such as collars, cuffs, flaps, lapels, waistbands. It prevents stretching and supports the garment at strategic stress points – necklines, sharply angled points, gussets, diamond-shaped inserts. The pattern for interfacings is developed from the garment pattern and facing patterns. Seam allowance is placed on patterns for woven fabric; a seamless pattern is used for fusible nonwovens.
Underlining. (Also called backing or mounting.) Underlining reinforces the outer fabric and provides body to the cloth. Patterns for underlinings are cut from the same pattern piece as the outer garment and on identical grain. When sewn together with the outer fabric, the underlining acts as one layer of fabric.
Interlining. Interlining is the layer between the lining and underlining. Its purpose is to add insulation between the lining and underlining for warmth. It is omitted in pleats and sleeves (too bulky). The pattern for interlining is the same as the lining pattern. The interlining is stitched to the lining sections individually, then to the garment as a single layer.
Lining. The lining is a finishing layer that covers the inside construction. It is developed from the jacket pattern…
Marcy Tilton’s article is available online. It covers other essential information from Patternmaking in more detail. Following these methods adds time and cost to making a coat, however, I will not make a coat without using them. I still have the jackets I made after I learned about the methods and none of the ones I made before. I even made a mistake with placing pockets correctly on one, but I still wore the jacket and loved wearing it because it looked good.
I will be using the following material: China Silk Lining; 3M Thinsulate Fabric; Veri Shape Sew-In Woven Light to Medium Weight Interfacing; Pellon Sof-shape; and organic cotton fleece. All were purchased from Vogue Fabrics with the exception of the fleece. It is from Organic Cotton Plus.